How to pick the right suit

A suit makes a man and not just because it can give you a show-stopping effect when you enter a room, but also because the right suit helps slim, trim and highlight your power points. This means when you are picking a suit you are about to make a serious investment, but the choices can be overwhelming, frustrating, and flat-out confusing.

How do you get that perfect fit? What are the sartorial meanings of colour and details, like pockets and buttons? And once you get the suit, how do you really wear it?

First things first, you have to know why you are buying a suit. Are you hunting for a suit to wear to the office once or more a week (if so, keep it dark and classic)? Or are you looking for a suit you will wear a few times a year to weddings and funerals (black or navy is a safe bet)? Is this your “job interview suit” (if so, you want to be well dressed but not better dressed than the guy interviewing you)? Or is it the kind you wear with sneakers and a T-shirt, or wear just the jacket with a pair of jeans?

In all these scenarios choosing the right colour is key. Grey is universal, good for business or leisure, and conveys that you are an honest, nice person. A lighter grey is more daring while a darker shade is more conservative. Blue is sporty and not overly sombre.

It is a classic and far more forgiving than black, which is off-limits, unless you want to dress like a butler or a funeral director. If you like a little pattern, you can find interesting variations like herring bones and checks. The key is trying on different shades and finding what speaks to you.

The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit. The suit’s shoulders should hug yours and shoulder pads should not protrude.

You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining across your chest. Conversely, there should not be too much space between the button and your chest no more than a fist’s worth. When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve, giving you the opportunity to flash some accessories.

Next week we look at more pointers on how to get a suit that suits.