General leaks found in cars

(Continued from last week)
Obel, a brand with a tender passion for engines, continues to address the general leaks found in your car.
We equally appreciate comments made by the readers of these articles and are much obliged to continue giving you advice.
One reader raised an issue for the benefit of others, arising from our article on leaks in the computer gearbox.
In our findings, we were of the view that this was literally impossible. The comments raised by the reader were as follows: that our articles were very informative and he has been a vivid reader ever since.
Having read the article about oil leaks in the computer gearbox on February 18, he raised a question, which would be of interest to other readers. He drives a car with an automatic gearbox and changed the oil last week after which he noticed that it was now taking long to change gears and the overdrive light flashed continuously.
He took it for computer diagnostics but the problem or the fault could not be detected.
He asked for our opinion and confirmation that this was caused by the type of oil used.
We were not supplied with the general information on the type of oil normally used, the SAE grade and API ratings of the oil.
This would have helped us to trace the possible cause of the problem. We were not given information, such as the type of the car, and the frequency of fluid change. But our assumption is that he is a “self actor” and does his own maintenance. It would appear that he may not have bought the recommended oil for use which we believe currently is DEXRON 111. Using this as a guideline, DEXRON is reddish in colour, which works on hydraulic couplings and automatic gearboxes.
Failure to use the manufacturer’s recommended handbook could be a problem and we believe the reader should check the type of oil he bought, as this is indicative of the problem.
There is a filter in the gearbox, which is sensitive to the quality of oil. When it is low, it creates the problem raised here, which is not the case.
Poor oil causes further rough changing of gears, jerking when driving, and short-circuiting of the module. Burning of valve-board solenoid and lack of drive could again be some symptoms.
We therefore want to offer some titbits to self-maintenance specialists on how to change the ATF.
Before changing the oil, avoid getting the transmission fluid onto your skin or into your eyes.
Step One: Check the level of ATF. Start your car and let it idle. It is easier to check the ATF level when the car is running. But you can still do it when the engine is off. You have to be careful as your measurement could be wrong.
Brush the dipstick tube, as it could contain grease and dirt. That is why it must wiped clean.
Take off the dipstick to view the level. If the colour is dark, then it is old. The colour for new fluid should be reddish. If the level is low, it is a bad sign, as this could be attributable to a leak in the gasket or on the cooling lines running to the radiator.
Step Two: Change intervals: please refer to your manufacturer’s handbook and if well cooled, this can last up to 62 500km with no hassle.
Step Three: Keep your car steady and not moving. Disconnect the line running from the radiator.
Take a piece of rubber tube and connect it to the pipe. The free end of the tube should be placed into a jar, for example.
Then start your engine and let it idle. If everything is done correctly, the old transmission fluid will run out of the cooling line into the jug/jar.
Switch off the engine when the fluid stops to flow. Dispose of the old fluid as per the EMA requirements.
Step Four: Drain pan. Screw out the bolts attaching the pan to the transmission’s bottom.
This could be messy if you don’t drain most of the AFT. Our advice, therefore, is to avoid contact with your skin.
Step Five: Clean the inside of the drain pan: use some transmission fluid. It is imperative to clean thoroughly as all dirt, debris, sludge and metal particles are to be removed.
You will find magnets on the bottom of the pan. Do not forget to remove them from all the metal shavings.
Step Six: Remove the old filter and replace with a new one. Never attempt to clean the old one with the purpose of re-use. It is imperative to change it after every ATF change.
Step Seven: This is for replacing the gasket. It is always better to change the gasket each time you drain the pan. Use the black RTV adhesive to improve the sealing.
Step Eight: Pan installation. When the filter and gasket are now in place, install the pan on the transmission.
Screw the bolts in thoroughly and tighten them with a torque wrench, and not sheer muscle power. Take care not to tighten or over-tighten the bolts.
Step Nine: You should use the correct type of ATF when filling and the amount of it in your car.
For details, always refer to the manufacturer’s handbook, which is the MUST and no guesswork.
Usually DEXRON 111 type fluid should be used. For our reader, there is need to confirm the type of oil used, as it could be the cause of the problem. Always do not be lazy to refer to your manual.
Finally, assuming you have followed the advice above, you still need to check the ATF level and use the dipstick pan. Do not forget to run the engine. If you are uncomfortable, we believe you ought to seek the experts in this field to do your job.
Transmission Problems
Slipping and uncertain shifting can also be caused by worn-out automatic transmission. Over a period of time, universal joints also get worn out which leads to vibration while driving. Modern universal joints are usually sealed. Therefore, you cannot lubricate them, but only replace them. On a regular basis, change the transmission fluid. A time schedule is usually provided for in the manufacturer’s handbook.
Oil: check the oil regularly and ensure the oil and filter are checked at the recommended intervals. Also, ensure that you use the correct type as recommended by the manufacturer. If the oil pressure warning light comes up, stop the engine immediately.
Usually, engine oil in the car is black after use for a long period. Clean oil is usually clear or brownish. Compare the leak with the oil at the end of the oil level dipstick. The most common source of leaks is the oil drain plug, the filter and the sump gasket under the engine. If the leak is coming from the oil drain or the filter, try tightening the plug or filter. If it continues, seek professional guidance.
Water: If your leak is very clear and you have an air conditioner, it could not be a leak, but condensation from the air conditioner. A lot of condensation can be produced on a hot day which may look like a major leak.
Coolant usually contains a bright-coloured dye and has a strong sticky smell. Coolant: check this level regularly and keep it topped up. If there is a leak, have it fixed as soon as possible. Always fix your eyes on the temperature gauge. If the engine overheats, stop and let it cool down before proceeding with your journey.
Overheating can cause serious damage to your engine. Old coolant may be rusty or dirty brown and there may be a white crystalline deposit around the leak.
These usually come from a hose, the radiator or the heater inside the car. You can stop a leak at times by tightening up a hose clip. If a hose has split you might be able to make emergency repairs, using a repair bandage. If the radiator or heater is leaking, you may be able to fix it temporarily by using a radiator sealant.
Manual Transmission Fluid: The oil is usually a tan colour or reddish pink, although old oil may darken. Transmission oil is thicker than engine oil and often has a very sticky smell, especially when hot. It is possible to drive with a minor leak but if the level of oil gets too low it can lead to serious transmission damage.
Most leaks are due to failed gaskets or oil seals. So, dismantling is usually required to fix the leak: get the specialists to look at it.
Let’s meet again and contact us on above cellphone numbers or through G. Mbeya on 0774215505.
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