adminAnn Ruthenburg
HELLO there people, I hope you are all good. This week we will be discussing about hair relaxers and straighteners. I keep having people asking me to explain the damage these do, or how best to look after their hair when it is relaxed. So here we go….So who uses straighteners or hair relaxers? Well, usually people with kinky, coily, curly or wavy hair. Relaxers straighten the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds within the strands, allowing them to be physically manipulated and rearranged. The chemical straightener lasts until your hair grows out, but it can be very damaging.
Unfortunately when we go to hairdressers to have our hair straightened, most hairdressers do not tell us the differences with these chemicals. There are some women who tell me that the relaxer used on their hair did nothing for them. Yes, this is possible, but it is not the relaxer that is the issue, it is the strength of relaxer as compared to the tightness of the curl in your hair. You cannot just go and buy a hair straightner just because someone says it works. You need to read the title or the main ingredient because if you use the wrong one the damage could cost you your hair. So I am going to give you a brief chemistry lesson. There are three types of relaxers; sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate.
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers. Lye relaxers can be used on wavy, curly or coily hair.
No-lye relaxers, aka calcium hydroxide relaxers, are designed for sensitive scalps and can also be used on curly, coily or wavy textures.
They are, however, actually harsher to the hair than lye relaxers and can dry the hair out. Ammonium thioglycolate isn’t recommended for use on very coarse or coily hair (the formula isn’t strong enough to straighten it), but it’s great for straightening fine, curly or wavy hair.
Choose a relaxer strength compatible with your hair type. “The amount of active chemical determines the strength. Mild is good for fine, colour-treated or damaged hair. Regular strength is for normal hair. Super strength is marketed toward very thick, coarse hair, However, I don’t recommend using super on any hair type because it causes breakage due to the high amount of the active chemical ingredient in the formulation.” Regular strength is usually sufficient for very thick, coarse hair.
Now if you have severely damaged or bleached hair you need to stop relaxing your hair altogether. “It is never a good idea to relax and colour your hair <http://www.thefashionspot.com/beauty/594169-dying-your-hair/> at the same time. To lift colour, ammonia and peroxide are involved. This will lead to severe breakage. I know as ladies when we see our hair looking sleek and straight we then want to colour it straight away, but hold on. Stick to safer alternatives, such as temporary rinses or semi-permanent colours that darken or cover greys instead. Hennas should be avoided as well, since they are very drying on hair that is relaxed. Ideally I would suggest if you need to colour your hair after relaxing it, please wait at least 2 to 3 weeks after the relaxer.
If you are on medication for thyroid concerns or high blood pressure, you need to speak to your doctor first since the medication can have an adverse effect on how their hair reacts to the chemical procedure.
Ideally, a professional hairstylist should apply relaxers. If you still insist on relaxing your own hair at home (like I do), please take the necessary precautions. Read the instructions on the box carefully, wear gloves when handling the relaxer, use a colour-sensitive neutralizer that alerts you when the relaxer has been thoroughly removed and enlist the aid of an experienced friend to help you apply the relaxer to the back of your head. Another thing is if you do not rinse all the relaxer off properly, once it dries on your hair, it will break off in that spot.
I have also been asked how often can one re-touch? I believe it depends on your type of hair, but ideally for the roots do it at least every eight to 10 weeks. During touch-ups, relaxers should be confined to new growth only. Overlapping onto previously relaxed hair should be avoided at all costs; otherwise this can lead to damage and breakage.
If you decide to get your hair relaxed, be prepared. Achieving manageable, straight hair cannot be done without proper care. Like color-treated hair, relaxed hair requires delicate handling, extra hydration and special attention. Here are some tips to keep your chemically-straightened hair in tip-top shape.
God bless!
Anastasia is an ex-beauty queen, photographic model, a blogger (annruthenburg.blogspot.com), a motivational speaker, and a fashionista. Message her on 0733285730 or email on [email protected]
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