How to change your brake pads

heard the most irritating noise before the car came to a complete halt.

It was a horrid experience as it drew the attention of fellow drivers and pedestrians. There and then I decided to dump my bush mechanic and explore other options to avoid further disappointments in future.

Bush mechanics are cheap but 90 percent of the time they tend to cost you more than a reputable garage or when you do the job yourself.
I realised that with cars it is not an issue of complications but it is about those little things you can do yourself to save you money.

Small mechanicals can be managed without the assistance of mechanics and these will set you back an hour or two but it’s a big no when it comes to electronic aspects of a vehicle, so stay away.

So in this issue I will go through a few basics on how you can change your brake pads without paying a penny.
If you are a woman you may break a nail or two but luckily for me I don’t keep nails.

You will be pleasantly surprised to find that you can change your car’s brake pads quickly, easily and without specialised tools.
Doing it yourself will also save you a lot of money.

But even if you are not interested in doing this yourself, knowing what’s involved makes it easier to understand what your mechanic will tell you. With my mechanic it was easy because I just watched as he did it.

Nearly all cars these days have brake pads. Those in the front usually wear out more quickly than the rear (which could either be disc or drum brakes, so they need to be changed more often.

You need to change brake pads when they get too thin, especially if they begin to make a persistent metallic squeaking or grinding noise when you apply your brakes.
But noise alone isn’t always the best indicator, so it’s best to anticipate when this will happen by periodically inspecting the thickness of the brake pads. If the front end of the car vibrates when you apply the brakes, your brake rotors may be warped. If the rotors appear grooved or uneven, they may be scored. In either case the rotors may also need to be replaced or “turned” on a brake lathe, a procedure that will need a professional. The time required to do your own brakes is about an hour or so saving you between US$30 and US$120 depending on what car you have.

I have realised that labour costs even after buying parts is quite expensive in Zimbabwe.
You will need disposable mechanic’s gloves to protect your hands and keep them clean, and your tool kit, and new brake pads.

Since you are saving money by doing this yourself, you might want to consider splurging a bit by buying original manufacturer brake pads, which are more expensive.
A can of brake fluid is critical to complete the process.

1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. Then raise the car and place a jack stand under the car’s frame.
Lower the jack so its weight rests on the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts completely and take off the wheel. You now have access to the brake assembly and can safely reach under the car.

2. Remove the bottom bolt of the calliper so that it pivots up.
The rubber hose, which is the hydraulic line, will flex to allow this so do not disconnect any hydraulic lines. At this point, it is very easy to inspect the thickness of the brake pads to confirm whether they need to be changed or not.

3. The brake pads are now exposed and the retaining clips hold them loosely in place. Simply slide the old brake pads out.

4. New pads almost always come with new clips, which allow the pads to slide back and forth easily. Use the new ones and chuck out the old ones.

5. The new pads should slide into place as easily as the old ones did when they came out, though sometimes the new clips will be tighter. The ears of the new pads should slot nicely into place on the grease you applied.

6. Before you can lower the calliper into place, these pistons need to be retracted (pushed back) so that they will create sufficient space for the new, thicker brake pads.

7. It will be wise to use a C-clamp to retract the piston or pistons. By doing this, the brake fluid in the pistons is being pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir through tiny passages, so the pistons move slowly. Fortunately, most cars have just one piston per calliper, which makes things far simpler. Either way, steady pressure and patience are key here. Throughout, take the utmost care to ensure you don’t nick or tear the rubber boot and seal that encircles the pistons.

8. When you push the pistons back, the brake fluid level slowly rises.
Open the master cylinder reservoir and check it often.
This is more of a concern when you work on the second brake, because the combined fluid volume of two callipers could cause the brake fluid to overflow.
If it looks like this is going to happen, suck out some of the brake fluid with a syringe. There is more danger of overflowing if someone topped off the fluid level during regular service visits.

9. With the pistons retracted, the calliper should slip over the pads with little effort. Sometimes the fit is tight and the calliper will slide on the newly installed brake pads. If the pistons catch on the brake pads, you might need to check that you retracted the piston completely.

10. Reinstall and re-tighten the slider bolt. Straighten the car’s wheels, re-mount the tire and tighten the lug nuts.

11. Repeat all these steps for the other side of the front brakes.
Remember that the brake fluid will be higher in the reservoir now that new pads are installed on one side, so keep your eye on the fluid level as you retract the piston on the other side. The fluid will only rise further the second time around. You don’t want it to overflow since the brake fluid is highly corrosive.

12. Test-drive the car under safe conditions to make sure everything is working properly, being especially careful for the first few stops. Be aware that your brake pedal might have a higher engagement point. You will quickly get used to this change. Enjoy using your new brakes knowing there are now thick brake pads to stop you safely.
Think about this the next time you want to change your brakes….do you really want to pay the extra money.
Till next week, God Bless you.

Fact Jeke is an auto enthusiast. You can contact her on email: [email protected] or via Facebook: Torque with Fact Jeke.

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