Picking the right suit

A fashion enthusiast admires a designer jacket in JANJAM shop
A fashion enthusiast admires a designer jacket in JANJAM shop

Chipo Mapondera Fashion
Last week I looked at the cut and other pointers for a man who is shopping for the perfect suit.
The number of buttons on your suit is a key element of cut and fit, and it will define the style of your suit. The three-button suit became the dominant look in the 1990s and it now seems to be the standard choice for young men.
To update this look for 2014, instead of opting for the standard high-cut version, look for one with a roll-over lapel where you button the middle button, encouraging the soft lapel to roll over the top button.

For years, the two-button suit was the go-to conservative-man’s getup. Now every fashion label imaginable is designing two-button suits, except that they’re making them more streamlined and modern.

This cut is what’s most in style right now. If you are looking for something a bit more fashion-forward, try a one-button suit.
It’s not for everyone and looks better on a tall, slim build. If you can pull it off, it’s a sleek look.
The vents on the back of your suit jacket give your suit some breathing space.

In fact, a jacket without a vent is just plain wrong. It says you think it’s still 1986.
A centre vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can’t go wrong, while side vents are more European and a bit more suave.

Now that you have found a suit that fits, your new best friend is your tailor, and you must know what he can — and can’t — do for you.
The areas that you should direct your tailor’s attention to are your shoulders, because if your suit doesn’t fit on the shoulders, it is not going to fit anywhere else.

The length of your pants is essential. If they are an inch or so too tight or too large in the waist, a tailor can usually fix them.
With jackets, a tailor usually will need to alter the length of the sleeves.

Generally, you want a quarter-inch of shirt cuff to show. The sides of a jacket often need tapering so that they contour to your torso, and check out the collar because many times there is a roll in the back of the suit jacket, up near your neck. A good tailor can correct this.
What accompanies your suit is just as important.

Your shirt should have a collar that does not choke, it should fit comfortably around your chest, shoulders and back, and should be in a versatile colour like whites, blacks and greys that match easily with the rest of your wardrobe.

If you play it safe with your shirt and suit, use your tie to make your mark. With your pocket square look for something in an unexpected shade that plays off a minor colour in either your tie or jacket.

Watches are key status symbols in any man’s look nowadays. Make a statement with yours, whether you go simple or go strong and bold.
Dark-brown or black lace-ups are sophisticated, but go easy on the wing tips, brogues, flat-fronted square styles, and toe-pinching pointy styles.

All in all, looking sharp comes down to choosing classic pieces that fit well and offer you versatility.

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