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Stan Higgins
One of the true tests of good restaurant standards is what is known as the ‘meet and greet’ ritual: in a venue claiming hospitality status, each guest should be warmly welcomed and immediately attended to. It is essential. It is also one of the most frequently absent features of Zimbabwe’s restaurants and this needs addressing.
There were no problems in this regard when my guest and I dined at Khaya Nyama Wombles in Harare one recent lunchtime. At the entrance, we were warmly welcomed by attentive staff and immediately handed over to the venue owner, Yvette Barker, who personally takes control to ensure guests are seated and place their orders after being briefed on the day’s menu and special offerings.
The subject of meet and greet came up earlier this week at a workshop on marketing for restaurateurs, hosted by the Restaurant Operators’ Association of Zimbabwe and run by former hospitality marketing and management executive Carol White, now a trainer and consultant. It was agreed at the workshop that this ritual is an essential step in the process of applying high standards of operation and I hope that many more venues will emulate the style of its application at Wombles.
Khaya Nyama Wombles is the full name of the restaurant, which is situated in the area where Highlands and Chisipite meet in Harare’s northeastern suburbs. The name Wombles goes back a long way in Zimbabweans hospitality history, as Yvette and her late husband, Duncan, founded the original Wombles restaurant in the Borrowdale area in 1984. They later moved to the Ballantyne Park shopping center and then, after living a short time in Australia, created a successful Wombles operation in South Africa.
They came back to Zimbabwe at the time Covid hit but persevered and created the new operation back on home turf, this time calling it Khaya Nyama Wombles, to signify that the basis of the operation is to be a steak house. Sadly, Duncan passed away soon after reopening but Yvette – with daughter Tiffany – has soldiered on and has created a fine operation by any standards. The pair form the only mother-and-daughter restaurant team in Zimbabwe, a first for the country and a fine example of gender progress.
It is in a former residential home that for some years was a restaurant called Amanzi, operated by Andrew Mama. Andrew wanted time off from the trade and the Barkers came in to create their operation, and in the short time since opening it has become a strong contender for the title of Harare’s leading fine-dining venue.
Incidentally, Andrew has now started up again and his new restaurant is called Amanzi at Amanzi, situated at his Amanzi Lodge in the Kambanji area of Harare.
Lunch at Wombles was a superb three-course delight starting with squid heads in batter with tartar sauce for my guest and potato and leek soup for me, followed by sole with mashed potato and a vegetable array for me and lamb chops with mashed potato and vegetables for my guest.
For dessert, I had a generous steamed pudding with custard and a touch of ice cream, while my guest had Pavlova, a meringue dish that had unique creative qualities in the Wombles style. It was an outstanding meal by any reckoning and the features of fine dining were present in every aspect, from service and presentation through to content portions and taste.
The restaurant features a good selection of steaks and beef dishes, of course, but maintains a strong input of other content, including vegetarian options. A varied and exciting menu is complemented by specials of the day and our starters and main courses were sourced from the specials of the day we went. An excellent wine list complements the menu. The venue is beautifully laid out and decorated and the garden surrounding the house is stunning, too. Dining can be indoors or on one of two terraces.
Khaya Nyama Wombles is open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday for lunch and for dinner on Saturday, closed Sundays. It’s at 158 ED Mnangagwa Road (formerly Enterprise Road) and can be called at (0242) 497768 for inquiries and reservations.
As I have said before, as a venue for upmarket dining, celebratory events, and corporate dining it most certainly ranks as one of Zimbabwe’s top-drawer culinary operations.
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