Andrew
Kimberly Mhembere
ZIMBABWEAN traditional foods have in the past fallen in the pecking order. There has been a preference, especially among the youth, for Western food. This was a result of colonialism; Zimbabwe was under British rule for 90 years.
However, it appears there is a reawakening among the youth, who are beginning to re-imagine indigenous foods. One of the Zimbabweans who have been at the forefront of this re-imagination is Tapiwa Guzha, a Zimbabwean based in Cape Town, South Africa.
Guzha manufactures ice cream using indigenous fruits. His ice cream has become a tool through which he re-frames the narrative around African food.
“It’s my hope that by normalising our cultural dishes, I can inspire positivity in one’s attitude and esteem in the African people,” he told The Sunday Mail Society.
His idea was informed by his upbringing.
“I grew up exploring the Zimbabwean food scheme, as well as eating a lot of wild fruits,” he recalled.
Guzha specialised in Molecular Biology and studied it all the way to doctorate level at the University of Cape Town.
He began his journey 12 years ago, when he was watching an episode of MasterChef, a cooking television show, as contestants were using dry ice.
“What triggered me to make ice cream was an episode of MasterChef. Since I worked in a lab, I had access to dry ice. Twelve years later, here we are!” said Guzha.
One day, while he was in a Zimbabwean cuisine restaurant in Cape Town, he saw a few home delicacies being sold and wondered how they would taste in ice cream form.
After successfully making ice cream for 10 years with dry ice, it dawned on him that he had never specifically made African ice cream.
“I wondered why, after years of making ice cream, I had never dared to make ice cream that would create an experience and connect with my childhood pallet,” he said.
Guzha has grown into a successful entrepreneur in Cape Town, where he runs Tapi Tapi, an ice cream bistro.
On its website, the business is described as an educational initiative that is focused on sharing food culture from the African continent with other Africans and visitors alike.
A Tapi Tapi experience is much like an exploration of distinctive African flavours, many of which carry huge symbolisms to sons and daughters of the soil.
“My pallet was inspired by a multitude of different African cultures from travelling across the continent. Travelling across the continent has helped influence my ice cream pallet, and, as someone with diverse friendships across the continent, this also contributed to my journey,” he said.
He makes more than 600 inventive ice cream flavours, ranging from masau to samp.
Through his brand, Guzha says the whole idea revolves around celebrating progress of the African heritage.
He does not only make ice cream but has also branched out into other foods and drinks. On the menu are chimunya (sadza kept overnight), pasta with a sauce of peanut butter, kapenta, fish and blackjack leaves.
Guzha said his goal, through his traditional flavours, is to decolonise the foodscape on the continent. He is not interested in expanding but is keen on seeing others take up this kind of work.
“Other people need to do this, that’s expansion. We need more representation,” he said.
Online Reporter