Contrasting tales: A suburb divided

A mere mention of the name Mbare sends chills down most people’s spines.

Thievery, prostitution, drug and substance abuse, among other illicit activities, come to mind.

It is nearly impossible to plan a visit to Mbare without worrying about one’s safety and belongings.

The general assumption is that Mbare, one of the country’s oldest suburbs, is merely a hub of social ills and vices.

Despite housing historical markets and sports venues like Mbare Musika, Siyaso, Magaba, Stodart Hall, Stodart Netball Complex, Magamba Hall and Rufaro Stadium, many choose to overlook its success stories to focus on the negative aspects.

There is a striking side of Mbare that many barely talk about.

After more than 115 years of existence, the location is arguably the busiest and most popular ghetto in Zimbabwe. Most suburbs in Harare have public transport that offer direct routes to Mbare, a testament of the suburbs vibrancy.

Before dawn, there is already a lot of movement, with transactions of both large and small sums taking place.

By sunrise, the pace intensifies!

Everyone and everything is on the move. Amidst the hustle and bustle, there is a constant buzz from honking public buses, commuter omnibuses and small vehicles (Mushikashika) going about their business.

Roadside vendors peddle their wares, which range from fruits, vegetables, herbs, clothes and anything else that you can think of.

Simply, Mbare is always bustling, every day.

Lifestyle

Interactions with Mbare locals indicate that it is a close-knit community where everyone knows and looks out for their neighbours. In this community, they share stories that can be easily woven into a single narrative of survival and a united fight against adversity.

Probably this is why some people frequently drive from flashy suburbs to the popular township for drinks with their childhood friends.

Most of the inhabitants are born and bred in Mbare, making the suburb their home, while others came specifically driven by the need to provide for their families.

In their quest to put food on the table, many roadside and backyard businesses have been established around the community. Backyard dealings like eateries, salons, manufacturing industries, and retail ‘stores’ have sprung up all over Mbare as families strive to survive.

Within these communities, there are also play spaces for children, who are, in a way, the neighbourhood’s responsibility.

“Here, we live like one big family. We make sure that everyone is safe, so you cannot cross lines with one of us and get away with it,” said Cletus Maramba, a community member.

“Despite all the negative talk about Mbare, I was born and raised here and there are many untold positive stories about us.”

However, Maramba admits that Mbare also has bad elements who live up to the negative stereotypes associated with the location.

He notes the location’s ugliness is not the litter, congestion or old, discoloured buildings, but the bad reputation and criminality that sometimes occur.

Nonetheless, businessman Tavaziva Garikai argues that most of the culprits are actually outsiders who visit Mbare for criminal activities.

“I grew up here and we know each other around the community. Some of these criminals were not raised here; they just come and ruin our image,” he said.

Business

Mbare boasts of vibrant medium to small businesses where transactions worth millions of dollars exchange hands daily.

The township can best be described as a busy place where one can find just about anything.

Also located here is the country’s largest vegetable market. Farmers from across the country bring their produce to the market to sell in bulk to vendors for resale.

Goromonzi-based farmer Chenai Makoni has been selling her produce at Mbare for nearly a decade. Once a week, she travels to the market by 4am to sell her vegetables and onions.

“At first, I was worried about my safety. But later, I realised that this is a community of people who interact well with each other, so I had to figure out a way to understand them.”

Magaba and Siyaso are also constantly busy industrial sites in Mbare.

Here, products ranging from farming equipment and inputs, building materials and vehicle tyres, among other items, can be found at these sites.

However, counterfeit products are also manufactured in some of these Mbare markets and industries and sold to unsuspecting consumers.

Products like foam bath, dishwasher liquid, body creams and other items are often packaged in genuine product containers or packs to mislead clients.

While the daring ‘bogus’ manufacturers conduct their activities in the open, others produce these products in secret spaces.

Earlier this year, normal service also resumed at the popular Mupedzanhamo Market.

While most of the traders retained the spaces on which they used to operate, some chose to operate from outside the market.

This has created chaos.

The traders operating around the market and along the stretch from Siyaso to Rufaro Stadium have made the area an eyesore and created chaos particularly for drivers.

Others occupy the ground adjacent to the flea market with no supporting infrastructure or ablution facilities.

Rich history

The suburb houses the country’s iconic home of football, Rufaro Stadium.

This year, it was the venue for the 44th Zimbabwe Defence Forces Day celebrations.

The celebrations reminded people of April 18, 1980, when the Union Jack was lowered and the Zimbabwe flag was hoisted, signifying Zimbabwe’s independence.

Mbare has also honoured some of its prominent sons and daughters by naming streets and important buildings after them.

Elizabeth Maria “Mai Musodzi” Ayema (1885-1952) is one of them. She was a social worker who became prominent for her tenacious fight for women’s rights.

Mai Musodzi helped found the Harare African Women’s Club in 1938 to help disadvantaged women. She also lobbied for a maternity clinic, which was eventually constructed in the suburb.

A recreational hall, the Salisbury Location’s Recreation Hall, was eventually renamed Mai Musodzi Hall in her honour.

Celebrated Zimdancehall music production house Chillspot Records is also domiciled in Mbare. The studio has churned out countless stars among them the late Soul Jah Love, Killer T, Seh Calaz and Kinna.

Prominent figures like music icon Thomas Mapfumo, boxer and former Commonwealth champion Zvenyika Arifonso and footballers Archford Gutu, Edward Sadomba, and Evans Gwekwerere, among others, all trace their roots to Mbare.

Chaos

Matapi flats, a prominent feature of Mbare, were established during colonial rule to accommodate unmarried men seeking employment in Harare.

These “bachelor” flats, consisting of 14 three-story blocks, once housed approximately 3 000 residents. However, the population has surged to an average of 28 000 today, including men, women and children.

The overwhelming number of residents has led to severe overcrowding, vandalism, unsanitary conditions and water shortages.

Despite the vibrant graffiti adorning the flats’ exterior, the interior reflects a stark contrast.

Similar squalid conditions exist in Matererini, Nenyere and Shawasha flats, where residents endure blocked toilets, bathrooms, and overcrowding.

Nenyere and Shawasha hostels house approximately 7 700 and 7 000 people, respectively.

The Harare Residents Trust director, Precious Shumba, notes the dire situation and the local authorities’ failure to address it.

In the past, refurbishment projects for these dilapidated buildings were proposed but never materialised due to undisclosed reasons.

“The authorities have failed dismally to address the crisis,” notes Harare Residents Trust director Precious Shumba.

“However, residents should desist from looking at development issues through political lenses lest they shun development partners and potential investors.

“Previous initiatives ended up being relocated to Dzivarasekwa when Mbare residents were in fact the first priority,” alleged Shumba.

A resident of Shawasha flats, Benjamin Dzimbanhete, expressed his disappointment with Harare City Council’s neglect of the area.

“Despite consistently paying rent and rates for years, services have continued to decline. We pay approximately US$100 (or equivalent) each month, which includes water and electricity bills,” Dzimbanhete said.

“Residents agreed on this amount because the bills from HCC were always too high.”

Another Matapi resident added, “Council has done nothing to improve our living conditions. We would be happy to move if they provided alternative accommodation.”

However, other hold a different perspective.

“Personally, I have always refused to move from this place. I inherited my room from my uncle, my late father’s brother, when he passed away. I have no documentation proving ownership of this house. So, I am certain that if I move, I will not be able to return,” said Edric Mudzviti.

Solution

To salvage what could be a potential ticking health time bomb waiting to explode, the Government has commenced the redevelopment of Mbare.

While the flats remain under the purview of the City of Harare, the refurbishing project is being done under the Government’s urban renewal project.

For selected flats, a site has already been identified around the Chishawasha grounds area for the construction of the first flat complex.

“This is where the first batch of residents will be housed temporarily pending demolitions and reconstruction of their flats. Suitable architectural designs are now being prepared for the said decanting process to begin,” said chief director for spatial planning and development in the Ministry of Local Government and Public Works Shingirayi Mushamba.

He said the project will take a phased approach to allow for a more manageable and flexible process, reducing disruption to residents’ lives.

The phases include initial demolition and site preparation, construction of new housing and community facilities.

“After that, we will then relocate (decant) residents to temporary or permanent accommodation like in the complex being constructed at Chishawasha grounds,” he said.

“We are focusing on repairing and reinforcing existing structures to address structural integrity issues and this involves addressing cracks, leaks and other forms of deterioration.”

Electrical systems will also be upgraded while green spaces and community gardens are to be created to enhance the aesthetic appeal and provide residents with recreational areas.

Meanwhile, Harare City Council head of corporate communications Stanley Gama said the colourful artworks on the flats in Mbare are illegal.

“We intend to take action with regards to that issue because that is illegal,” he said.