Online Reporter
So Sweet
FOR many, a morning cup of coffee is a cherished ritual. Yet the complex, aromatic beverage we enjoy today — with notes of berries, chocolate, or citrus — is a far cry from the simple, bitter brew of centuries past. The evolution of coffee’s flavour is a global journey of discovery, cultivation, and innovation.
It all begins in the ancient highlands of Ethiopia, the birthplace of Coffea arabica. According to legend, a 9th-Century goat herder named Kaldi noticed his goats becoming unusually energetic after eating red berries from a certain bush.
Curious, he tried them himself and experienced a similar boost. Early use of coffee involved chewing the cherries or grinding them with fat into an energy-rich paste — far removed from the roasted, brewed drink we know today.
Coffee’s transformation began in 15th-century Yemen, where Sufi mystics cultivated the plant and discovered that roasting and brewing the beans produced a fragrant, stimulating drink. This innovation unlocked a wealth of flavour compounds, turning a simple seed into a complex beverage. Coffee houses, or qahveh khaneh, soon became vibrant centres of social and intellectual life.
As coffee spread through the Ottoman Empire and along spice trade routes, new flavour dimensions emerged. In Yemen and Turkey, it became common to brew coffee with spices like cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves. These additions enhanced the drink’s aroma and cultural significance, laying the foundation for today’s flavour pairings.
Coffee reached Europe in the 17th century via Venetian traders. Initially met with scepticism, it quickly gained popularity. European cultures added their own twists — Italians, for instance, introduced liqueurs, paving the way for espresso-based cocktails. This marked a shift from brewing with spices to adding flavours post-brew, expanding the possibilities for experimentation.
The 18th and 19th centuries saw coffee cultivation spread globally as colonial powers established plantations in Asia and the Americas. This expansion introduced the concept of terroir — the influence of soil, climate, and altitude on flavour. Brazilian and Colombian coffees, often grown at lower altitudes, developed nutty, chocolatey notes with balanced acidity. Ethiopian and Kenyan beans, grown higher up, became known for their fruity, floral profiles.
Indonesian coffees, such as those from Sumatra and Java, gained fame for their full-bodied, earthy richness.
In the 20th century, industrialisation prioritised efficiency over flavour. Vacuum-sealed packaging and instant coffee made the drink more accessible but often at the cost of complexity. Robusta beans, cheaper and more robust than Arabica, dominated mass-market blends, offering a strong, bitter taste but lacking nuance. This led to a homogenisation of flavour and set the stage for a new movement.
The “third wave” coffee revolution emerged in the late 20th and early 21st centuries, shifting focus back to origin and flavour. Coffee began to be treated like fine wine, with roasters highlighting terroir, processing methods, and varietals. Today, we describe coffee with precision — from the “bright acidity” of a Kenyan AA to the “chocolatey sweetness” of a washed Colombian.
Processing methods also play a key role. The natural (dry) process imparts a syrupy body and intense fruitiness. The washed (wet) method produces a cleaner, brighter cup, while the honey process offers a rich, balanced sweetness.
Now, roasters and baristas act as artisans, selecting beans from specific micro-lots and roasting them to unlock their full potential. From Kaldi’s curious goats to a meticulously brewed pour-over with notes of jasmine and bergamot, coffee’s journey is a testament to its enduring appeal — not just as a source of energy, but as a celebration of flavour, culture, and craft.
