The science of hair growth: What really works

Dr Kuda Mupawose

HAVE you ever looked at your reflection and willed your hair to grow faster, only to feel like it’s moving at the pace of a glacier?

Well, welcome to the club of curious souls who marvel at hair — the tiny overachiever that grows an average of 1 centimetre a month without us lifting a finger.

Let’s pull back the curtain and explore what really works when it comes to growing hair, all while having a good laugh at the myths we have all fallen for.

Meet your hair: The tireless worker

Your hair isn’t lazy — it’s a full-time employee. Of the roughly 100 000 hair strands on your scalp, 90 percent are hard at work in the anagen phase, also known as the growth phase.

This phase can last anywhere from two to seven years, depending on your genetics.

Then there’s the catagen phase, where hair takes a short coffee break, and the telogen phase, where it basically clocks out and eventually falls out to make room for a new strand.

Think of your scalp as a well-oiled machine.

As long as the conditions are right, the factory keeps running.

But what happens when the factory slows down? That’s where we step in to figure out what’s helping — and what’s hindering.

The garden of your scalp

If you want a lush garden, you have to treat your scalp like soil and your hair like the plants. Here is the recipe for success:

* Water (Hydration)

A dehydrated scalp is like dry soil — nothing grows well. Drink plenty of water to keep your scalp hydrated and your hair healthy.

Trust me, your hair follicles will thank you.

* Fertiliser (Nutrition)

Hair is made of keratin, a protein. Without enough protein in your diet, your body struggles to produce strong, healthy strands. Pair this with key vitamins like biotin, iron and zinc, and you have got the perfect fertiliser for your hair garden.

* Sunshine (Circulation)

Blood flow is the sunshine your hair follicles need. Regular scalp massages stimulate circulation, delivering nutrients to the roots. Bonus points if you throw in a good laugh —laughter increases blood flow, too!

What works, what doesn’t, and what’s just funny

* Does cutting your hair make it grow faster?

Nope! This old wives’ tale has fooled us all. Hair grows from the root, not the tip. Trimming only prevents split ends from making your hair look thinner.

* Do oils and serums grow hair?

Not quite. While oils can condition the scalp and prevent dryness, they don’t change the genetic programming of your hair follicles. That said, a well-conditioned scalp does provide an ideal environment for growth.

* Do expensive products hold the secret?

The truth is, no product can outsmart biology. Hair growth happens beneath the surface, and most products only address the visible strand. Invest in a balanced diet and good hair care practices instead.

A hair growth story: From factory to follicle

Imagine this: Deep within your scalp, each follicle is a mini-factory staffed by hardworking cells. These cells produce keratin, which pushes its way up through the follicle to become the strand of hair you see. But the factory needs resources. Without proper nutrition, hydration and care, production slows down — or stops altogether.

Now, picture your hair strands as marathon runners. During the anagen phase, the runner is sprinting with all their might. Eventually, they tire and pass the baton to the catagen phase, a leisurely jog. Finally, the telogen phase walks the baton across the finish line, where the strand rests and falls out, making way for a fresh runner.

The patience principle

Hair growth is a slow but steady process. It’s a marathon, not a sprint, and no magic potion will turn you into Rapunzel overnight. The secret lies in consistent care: nourish your body from within, hydrate, and give your scalp the attention it deserves.

So, the next time you stare at your reflection, measuring your hair growth millimetre by millimetre, remember this: your hair is a dedicated worker, clocking in every day to do its job. Treat it well, and it’ll reward you with a crown of glory — eventually.

Dr Kuda Mupawose is a board certified tricologist with American Medical Certification Association. She is also a pharmacologist, medical scientist, entrepreneur and founder of the Feso Clinic and Feso haircare brand. Feedback: [email protected] or [email protected]. Phone +263 773 193 839