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Brenda Phiri Lifestyle Writer
The occasional cosmetic bill these days can leave one’s wallet in need of some recovery, thanks to the costly weaves. From the Indian to the Mongolian hair extensions of this world, you really would need to part with a substantial amount of money to buy a weave piece in this category. For a moment, it was the females who were forking out money to look a million bucks. If you can’t beat them, you might as well join them. It looks like Africans, to be specific, Zimbabwean men, have joined in the fun and are commercialising human hair.
A new bug has hit the streets and hair is being traded in the form of natural dread-locks, Saturday Herald Lifestyle can reveal.
Just like our human hair weaves, the prices of the locks are jaw dropping but what prize can you pay to look like your favourite dread-locked super star in an instant? It’s okay, we are not judging you.
After all, it takes months or years before they are long enough for the dread styles of stars and celebs that you see on television.
Dead-lock specialist from Gianni Hair Salon in Harare, Tavaziva Zinto, said just like “human hair weaves”, dread-lock extensions are a growing trend with both sexes. Men, however, are ahead of it.
After spending more than seven years in the trade, “Thabo” as he is known from his “hair” days in Bulawayo let us in on what is really going on.
He highlighted that reasons for extensions can also be because smaller ones “stand” in the beginning and are quiet a hustle to maintain.
“Trading in natural dread-lock extensions has been the norm for some years now. Although there are no real shops in Zimbabwe where you find them, while salons are the best places to find genuine human lock extensions,” he said.
He added that the most common shop was the streets where “would be” buyers approach potential “donors”. The customers negotiate and offer money to have a person cut and sell their hair to them.
After serious negotiations have been done, the donor usually comes up with the price and the date when he or she will shave the locks, which are immediately planted in the buyers hair, in no time, just in case the donor might have change of heart, after being offered more money elsewhere.
Countries that trade in human hair, Brazil, India, Peru, Mongolia, have a methodical way of “harvesting” the hair from people. According to an online publication, the hair is chemically stripped off the scalp before being treated and sold. What then is the procedure with kinky African dreadlocks?
“There are no strict rules when it comes to collecting natural dreadlocks. The ones on demand are smoothly moulded and are exceptionally long. They are shaved off at any level before being shampooed. After that, they are ready for the next person,” he said.
Thabo also highlighted that the quality of hair also plays an important role when it comes to putting a price tag on dreadlocks.
“There is no standard price for dreadlocks, especially the ones on someone’s head. The owner of the hair names a price depending on what it took for them to maintain the dreadlocks. Some use quality products on their hair while others opt for washing powder. Washing powder bleaches and in turn distorts the colour,” he said.
“The colour and thickness of the locks plays a role depending on the specifications of the end user. The minimum that one can part with for shoulder length dreadlocks is US$250. The price can go as high up as $900,” he said.
The specialist also highlighted there were cases where one shaves off their dreadlocks and instead of throwing them away, they exchange them for any price that is offered.
“Another common pricing method is bidding. The quality of dreadlocks varies with individuals and once a client identifies someone’s dreadlocks, depending on how desperate they are, it is common to offer as much,” he said.
Selling natural locks has become brisk business for a lot of people, particularly the unemployed youths, who are using all forms of herbs and other enhancers to speed up the growth, in order to get quick buck.
Thabo also took the time to explain the process of attaching the extensions. He said it was a requirement for one to have pre-existing shorter dreads or hair that is lockable.
“That way it is easy to handle and is able to support the weight of the extensions,” he said.
A crochet needle is then used to attach the locks, dread after dread. The trick here, according to the specialist is to ensure that the thickness is the same from the root to the extension.
“Other hair dressers may prefer to sew the locks with black cotton wool but this kind of fusion is noticeable.
“The crochet needle method is more reliable because it creates a stronger unnoticeable bond. The crochet also work better on chemically treated, slippery or Caucasian hair,” he said
Regular retouch is said to be essential to ensure that the locks stay as natural as can be. Tints ensure uniformity in the colour of locks.
This shows the high levels of innovativeness but could there be any medical implications?
Doctor Margaret Maulana, the General Manager at Premier Service Medical Investments (PSI) Westend Hospital said the answer is debatable.
“I would not say yes or no to whether there are side effects associated with human hair. Hair is protein and the skin (from face, back of neck) and scalp reacts differently to foreign substances.
“Some do not react at all but it depends on an individual’s immune system,” she said.
Her advice however was for people to be cautious and always perform skin tests first before attaching the natural locks.
Online Reporter