The issue of shaving in men . . . what to use

Ann Ruthenburg
HELLO there everyone, how are you this week, one week after Valentine’s kikiki. Today we will address issues to do with men. I have received enquiries from some men regarding the issue of shaving. I will address that this week. So here we go. . . Every man has to shave, maybe not every day. It has been that way for thousands of years. So of course one would be forgiven for believing that all men know how to shave and what to use because they have done it forever. But that is not true.

The sad fact is that most men don’t know how to shave properly. Why? I am not sure. But there is a thought pattern that says in our great grandfathers’ days they had to use a sharp blade capable of slicing their heads off. So if they did not go to a barber, they had to learn what they were doing. . .or else. But then somebody invented the safety razor and then the disposable razor cartridge. And with the danger gone, people stopped learning how to do it properly. So today and possibly next week we will walk you men and boys through it. And if you know someone who has not read this column but has problems shaving, tell them to buy this paper it will help.

I was shocked to learn that the average man has somewhere between 15 000 and 20 000 hair growing out of his face. (Zach Galifianakis the actor probably has 50 000.) And each of this hair is supposedly as hard as copper wire regardless of your race – so it is no wonder that shaving is a pain.

So the first thing every man needs to do to achieve a good shave is figure out the direction of the grain. And this sounds simple, but for most it is not – because the grain goes in different directions on different parts of the face. So what you need to do is map the grain of your beard. Start by feeling the direction of the grain with your index finger to get the correct direction. You are never supposed to shave against the grain, despite what many dermatologists will tell you. However, you should never start off a shave going against the grain. You should always start going with the grain. Then you can make additional passes with the razor to get a closer shave – first going across the grain one way, then across the other way, and then, if that is still not close enough, against the grain.

If you start out against the grain, however, you will have problems. The razor will tug at the whiskers rather than cut them off smoothly, which can then lead to more ingrown hairs. Oh, and if you are worried that “grain mapping” sounds time-consuming, it is. But only at first. Once you get the hang of it, you will know the grain of your beard instinctively and you will shave without even thinking about it.

There are only three types of razors: straight razors, safety razors, and electric razors. The last two types can then be further subdivided. With safety razors you have double edge (DE) razors and multiple blade razors. The former is the kind your grandpa probably used; the latter the kind you probably use.

So which type of razor is best? Well, that depends on you. If you don’t want a close shave, a wet electric razor might work fine. However, if you like closer shaves, you should go with either a safety razor or a straight razor.

That being said, chances are there is no way you are going to start shaving with a straight razor. So for the rest of this list I’m going to assume you’re using a safety razor of some kind.

You know those old-timey photographs of men sitting in barbers’ chairs with towels wrapped around their faces? They knew what they were doing. Every time you shave you should prep your skin with warm water or steam. Taking a hot shower and washing your face before shaving would be best, but a hot towel around the face for 45 seconds and repeated three times will work too. What does this do? It softens the hair (remember, they’re as strong as copper wire) and loosens the skins (i.e., opens the pours) so hairs are more likely to stand up. This makes a clean, easy shave possible. So adjust your shaving routine accordingly, starting today.

If you want to make one change to improve your shaving life this week, stop using the gels and creams in aerosol cans and start using shaving soap or lathering cream and a genuine badger hair shaving brush. The widely available shaving creams and gels you get at the store contain ingredients that are simply not good for your skin. Meanwhile, the shaving soaps and creams designed to be used with a shaving brush are better for your skin, and the brush will exfoliate your skin and further help soften your whiskers and make them stand up. So it’s a win-win.

After you shave, rinsing your face with cold water is imperative. Why? Well, you just opened up your pores with hot water, right? So this is how you close them. Doing this will help keep junk out of your pours and help prevent skin irritation.

Unlike shaving creams, there are actually a wide variety of decent aftershaves available at your local drug or grocery store. Why? I have no idea. But this should make good shaving easier. The only problem is that most men don’t know how to choose the right stuff.

You see, the first thing you have to do is determine the type of skin you have. The basic types are dry, oily, sensitive, and normal. It’s not rocket science, but here’s something that may not have ever occurred to you: you might have one type of skin on one section of your face, but another type of skin on another section.

So what does this mean for choosing aftershave? Well, there are two basic kinds of aftershave: balms and splashes. Balms are meant to sooth and moisturise and thus are best for sensitive and dry skin. Splashes are meant to cleanse and provide antibacterial protection and thus are best for regular or oily skin.

But here is the thing: if you have different types of skin on different parts of your face, don’t go with just one aftershave. Use different types on different parts of your face. So if your beck is sensitive, use a post-shave balm there. And if your chin is oily, use a splash there. The important thing is to figure out your own face and choose products accordingly.

That is it from me this week guys. So until next week. . .God Bless!

Anastasia is an ex-beauty queen, photographic model, is a blogger (annruthenburg.blogspot.com), a motivational speaker, and a fashionista. Message her on 0733285730 or email on [email protected]